June 30 Chartres to Muides-sur-Loire 123K / 77 Miles

Today was sunny and hot. The Route amazing. Very little traffic all the way on these roads. A shout out to my cycling comrades: you'd be dumfounded at the cycling here. It's been said France doesn't need cycling paths built because the entire country is a network of cycling routes. Check out a Michelin Road Atlas of France and all those white roadways are beautiful lanes with almost no traffic. I camped along the Loire River at the "Municipaux Camping". I pedaled through the villages of Coranez, Pezy, Rouvay, Sancheville, Bazoches, Peronville, took a break in Villamblain, Ouzouer, Concriers, and Mer.

July 1 Muide-sur-Loire to Buzancais 121K / 76 Miles

A very hot day. I put my lightweight hiking pants on in the afternoon to keep the sun from cooking me alive. I have a bandana tied to the back of my hemet to keep the sun off my neck. I have to carry 6 litres of water when I pull out of towns because the villages have no stores to buy any and you don't know if the public fountain will be potable. This morning I started at 7:00 and stopped by Chambord Castle (pics later, this library computer will not allow pics uploaded). The town of Montresor lived up to it's hype as one of the lovliest towns in France. It was a really hot 80K to get there and I was hoping for a good rest. I stopped where a cyclist was sitting on a bench taking a lunch break. We began conversing and turns out he, Tom, was a part of an English Over-70 Cycling Club!!! I spent 3 hours in Montresor and Tom introduced me to the Tourism Center where I should stop when entering towns. Usually those working at these speak English. And I was introduced to Fillets of Mackerel in Mustard sauce. I promptly hit the Superemarche and purchased 4 cans. I found out some information that alters my route. Turns out cyclists are not allowed to climb the Puy De Dome (one of the famous Tour De France climbs, last used in 1971 I believe) so I will arrive at the Gorges Du Dordogne a little sooner.

July 2 Stop in Argenton-sur-Creuse

I arrived here at the worst of times (12:15) to shop or use the library or visit the Tourism Office. In France many things close up from 12:00 to 2:00 or 12:30 to 3:00. The pace here is a bit different. I've become a regular visitor of the Boulangerie (Bakery). Folks here gotta have their bread. And they are everywhere and in the mornings lines of people form. I saw a cyclist today with a long baguette strapped to his rear rack. And I've learned to say "Superemarche?", when I need water or groceries. Supermarkets here come in all sizes. Also I have learned that a library is a "bibliotheque" and a "librairie" is a news-stand. So I'm slowly catching on. By the time I figure I'll have a handle on the key French phrases I'll be crossing into Germany. I hope to post photos soon.

July 2 Buzancais to Charletus-Marveliex 117K / 73 Miles

I am in Aubusson as I write, taking a day off the bike, and enjoying the town center. After Argenton the terrain got quite hilly so I knew by the lack of zip in my legs I was due a day off. I would shoot for Aubusson tomorrow only 60K or so. I didn't leave Argenton until 4:15 and it was longer to Charletus-Marveliex than I had thought. I arrived at the Municipaux Camping at 9:10. Nice spot, great showers, and a good night's sleep though it did rain hard all night.

July 3 Charletus-Marveliex to Aubusson 64K / 41 Miles

I awoke to a pleasant day though the rain cooled things off. I took it easy from the start knowing I had only 40 miles. I stopped in Ajain only 15 K into the day when the sun came out to dry out my tent in the sunshine. Once I got rolling I twice encountered brief rainstorms. It was a beautiful ride with mostly ups and downs. The last 10K was along the Creuse River. I arrived in Aubusson to the sight of a cemetery like one I had never seen before. On an extremely steep hillside was a very old traditional French graveyard (photo). I found my way to the Tourism Office where English was spoken and I got a map and directions to all points necessary. I made my way over to the Municipaux Campground and can you believe it? I began speaking with my English neighbors (John & Chris Clements) and they said they once lived in Philadelphia. I said I lived near Pittsburgh. The gentleman says he visits Greensburg on occasion. I say that's where I'm from. He says have you heard of the Tuscano Agency? Now I'm incredulous!!! Turns out my neighbors are Insurance Agents and linked to the Tuscano Agency in London. We sat and had a great conversation until late at night. Sometimes it's a really small world. Next to them were camped Keith &Rachel from England who helped me figure out the self-timer on my camera. Thanks again Keith. So now I'm at this Internet Cafe. The French people are amazingly friendly and helpful. When I stop in a village and ask directions at a confusing crossroads they take it on as a challenge to get me going the correct way. I'm loving every mile.

July 4 Aubusson - Rest Day

This is my second stint in the Internet Cafe. Last visit my camera batteries went dead so I hoofed it back to the campground for replacements I've been lugging for 10 days. My day off has been good. It began at 7:30, I studied my French phrase book for awhile, then was trying to figure out my camera which Keith (& Rachel) helped me with. And I got photos of John and John & Chris. HEY! A shout out to Karl Tringese back at Greensburg Cyclery. I actually did maintenance on my bike last night and cleaned it. What about those apples? As I walked around Aubusson I took some random photos to give you a feel for the town. Click on any photo to see it enlarged. Aubusson is just right for a rest day on tour; not too big, not too small. The Church you see on the hill is Eglise Saint Croix. I walked in and instantly could have been translated into the 17th century. Photos of the inside I hope come out okay. Oh, by the way, there has been a siting of Inspector Couseau's automobile! The Pink Panther can't be far away!

July 5 Aubusson to Auriac 122 K / 76 Miles

Hills. The day began with hills and ended with hills and sandwiched in the middle were miles of flat and rolling terrain along the Dordogne River. I pedaled through St Quentin, Gioux, Feniers, Millevaches (from where I could spot the volcanic mountains off to the east), Neuvic, and Soursac. The final few miles of the day I had a fantastic plunge of about 3 miles down to the Dordogne River gorge followed of course by an equally fantastic climb (which seemed much further than 3 miles) up to Auriac.